Bill's Coast to Coast Diary

Day 8: Kirkby Stephen to Keld

(N.B. Hover your mouse over the pictures for captions)

The weather did not look too promising as we got up. The hills that I could see from the bedroom in the B&B were covered in mist. I had a quick look at the map to identify a lower-level route if required. After breakfast we met another American, Rick Hawkes, who was starting the walk from Kirkby Stephen. He was over here with his daughter Erin.

Our accommodation in Kirkby Stephen >

After a quick stop at the shop to buy lunch, we headed out past Frank's Bridge and up to Hartley. The weather didn't seem too bad, so we decided to take the normal route over the Nine Standards. Several other walkers seemed to doing the same, which was encouraging. This included one girl who zoomed past us whilst ascending a steep part of the road. When Phil remarked on the absence of her backpack she rebuked him to the effect that if you're walking 190 miles you don't carry a backpack! I don't know what she thought we were doing. The rebuttal turned to amusement when we were passed by her (male) partner - a few yards behind, carrying an enormous pack, containing, presumably, lunch and wet weather gear for two!

Hartley Fell

The climb up to Nine Standards Rigg is not too bad, the road taking you a fair way, and then a good track up the hill. As we climbed, we were looking at mist on the mountains around, and wondered what it would be like on the Nine Standards. The weather threatened more as we entered the fellside, but it did remain fairly clear.

The view behind whilst ascending Hartley Fell

Adryan and Tinny caught us up, and then we turned up Faraday Gill,

Tinny and Adryan at the bottom of Faraday Gill

with occasional glimpses of the Nine Standards to prove that the route should be clear ahead.

The Nine Standards

I must admit I found the last part of the ascent a little tiring. By now it was a little boggy, but I didn't think it bad enough to put my gaiters on. Finally we reached the top in very murky weather. Quite cold too - must remember to come in summer next time. Oh no, hang on it is summer - the good old British summer!

Nine Standard's Rigg

After a short stop for a drink, we carried on to examine the trig point and then descended through horrible peat groughs to the guidepost that marked the start of the blue route down to Whitsun Dale. Well it should have marked the blue route, it being the first of August, but the sign firmly pointed straight on along the red route, the route used up until 31st July. We could see parties of walkers heading down the blue route, so we decided to follow.

Tea stop on Nine Standards Rigg

We could see the general direction they had gone in, and the compass informed us that this was the right direction, but there was not really much of a path to see. Progress in this direction was hampered by peat groughs and general bogs, but we persevered, gaiters being most definitely required by now. We could see a post in the distance that seemed to be on the right bearing, so we headed for that. It turned out to have blue paint on it, and in fact a succession of blue painted posts led us down the side of the mountain to Whitsun Dale. This path was very boggy: you had to watch every step.

Descending to Whitsun Dale

Eventually we turned into Whitsun Dale, and found a sheltered spot for lunch by a stream. From here it seemed a long walk up to Raven Seat, complete with more bogs. By the time we got on firmed ground, I was really bogged out, with mud up to my knees!

Whitsun Dale

From here, a pleasant path leads through farmers' fields. We hurried through one of them because of a 'Beware of the Bull' sign - although I think this may have been more of a frightener than anything else.

Walking above Raven Seat

After a lovely walk above the river, we walked over Cotterby Scar and along the road to Keld.

The road to Keld

It had been a long and tiring day, and we were to find out that our accommodation for the night was a mile UP the road towards Thwaite. We expected to find it round every corner, and I was almost giving up hope of finding it when Greenlands appeared round the next bend. We walked into the garden and met the proprietor, who told us to sit down, take our boots off and admire their fantastic view. He would take our boots and gaiters away and clean them for us, an amazing service, given that my gaiters had half of Nine Standards Rigg on them. Coffee and scones would be in the dining room in ten minutes! Great. When we got to our rooms, Phil and I were particularly pleased to find that the ‘dry’ night we were expecting (there being no pub in Keld) was not going to be dry any more. Beer and wine was available, and we had a great evening meal and a good chat in such a delightful cottage.

View from the garden at Greenlands