Bill's Coast to Coast Diary

Day 9: Keld to Reeth

(N.B. Hover your mouse over the pictures for captions)

After the hard day the day before, Kath felt like accepting the offer of a lift back to the walk, so we accepted our host's offer of a lift back to Keld. So we set off from Keld in the sunshine, refreshed after a night’s sleep. We had decided to walk the river route rather than the normal high passage through the mines. Apart from the extra effort involved, there was the thought of the pubs en route! Our host thought this was a good choice.

Setting off from Keld

We chose the path on the north side of the river, and think this was the best way to go.

Choosing the route as we join the Pennine Way

We followed the Wainright route across the river, up the hill and high on the valley side, with wonderful views of the river and waterfalls on the way.

Path on the north side of the river

Instead of taking the track up to Crackpot Hall, we kept right and gently descended the river over the next mile or so.

Path along the Swale valley

The views down the river on this early section are just stunning.

View down the Swale valley

Waterfall in the Swale valley

We had been warned that the path that we had been following eventually turns into a metalled road, and that it is best to keep by the river. When we spotted the bridge over the river, we turned right down a grassy bank a few hundred yards before the bridge and along the riverside up to the bridge. From here we easily joined the path that continues near the river.

Ivelet Bridge over the Swale

Then it was a pleasant stroll to Gunnerside and to a pleasant lunch where we met Nancy and Joe again. Much amusement was made of the discovery of a painting in the ladies' toilet of a naked man in the pub with strategically placed pint of beer. Phil and I were glad to find a complementary painting in the gents’ of a bevy of beautiful girls at the bar!

Painting in the gents at the King's Head

From Gunnerside we walked near the river for quite a way, including one section on top of a wall! Although pleasant, I did not find this as wonderful as the first few miles from Keld. Eventually, the path climbed up (confusingly in trees) to the road. We turned down the road for a short while, and then joined a path that climbed up the hillside and through to the village of Healaugh. The effort was worthwhile as the views from the higher altitude were better.

Entering Healaugh

We walked through the village and then took a path for Reeth through farmland (not the path straight down to the river).

Healaugh

The path became a track and then a road, and we entered Reeth and turned up a small alleyway to reach the village square. This was quite a sight, with plenty of activity all around, including our fellow coast-to-coasters Nancy, Joe, Adryan, Tinny, Howard and Lynda. Also there was a nice ice cream shop!

The Coast to Coasters on the green at Reeth

We sat down and chatted on the village green, and arranged that we would meet for a meal together the following night in Richmond, as the itineraries were diverging after that.

Joe and Nancy on the green at Reeth

Then we went into the Kings Arms to find our bed for the night. The dining room here was very cramped, but we had a pleasant-enough meal. After dinner, we sat in the bar area and listened to a duo (guitarist and vocalist), until 12.30. Adryan and Tinny, Joe and Nancy were also there, and we had a great night, including writing the lyrics to our coast to coast song (to the tune of ‘It’s a long way to Tipperary’):

It's a long way to Robin Hood's Bay,
It's a long way to go.
It's a long way to Robin Hood's Bay,
To a beach that I don't know.
Good-bye Kirkby Stephen,
Good-bye St. Bees Head,
It's a long, long, way to Robin Hood's Bay,
So I'll stay here instead!

The King's Arms, Reeth